Templo Mayor and Museum

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Templo Mayor and Museum
 “Travel has made me more aware of me. I learn more about myself while on the road than anywhere else. It’s given me the I can make it happen attitude.”  Jessica Johnson
The Templo Mayor was one of the main temples of the Aztecs in the capital city of Tenochtitlan, which is now Mexico. The Templo Mayor dates back to 1325 and was destroyed by the Spanish in 1521. It lies to the northeast of the main plaza of Mexico City. After the Spanish conquered Tenochtitlan, the Templo Mayor, like most of the rest of the city, was taken apart and then covered over by the new Spanish city.
The Templo Mayor was not discovered until the late 19th century and early 20th century but was not fully excavated until 1978 when workers for the electric company were digging at a place in the city then known as the “island of the dogs” named such because when there was flooding, street dogs would gather there. They struck a pre-Hispanic monolith. This stone was a huge disk of over 3.25 meters (10.7 feet) in diameter, 30 centimeters (11.8 inches) thick and weighing 8.5 metric tons.
To excavate, thirteen buildings in this area had to be demolished. All the findings (7,000 pieces) are now housed in the Templo Mayor Museum.

The archaeological site was interesting but the museum was stunning.  The price of admission is 57 pesos, approximately $4.00 Cdn.and includes both the archaeological site and the museum. Keep in mind that the museum and site are closed on Mondays.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Teotihuacan Pyramids, Mexico City

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Teotihuacan Pyramids, Mexico City
 “We travel, initially, to lose ourselves, and we travel, next, to find ourselves. We travel to open our hearts and eyes and learn more about the world than the newspapers will accommodate. We travel to bring what little we can, in our ignorance and knowledge, to those parts of the globe whose riches are differently dispersed. And we travel, in essence, to become young fools again – to slow time down and get taken in, and fall in love once more.” – Pico Lyer
This tour will take a day to complete, including travel time. There is very little shade available so make sure to wear sunscreen and a hat. Comfortable walking shoes are another must. The entry fee is 64 pesos.
The pictures do not do it justice. It is a huge site. We hired a guide, and it was worth the money. The guides are at the entrance to the site, and they all have their certification as guides for that particular site.
Some interesting facts:
·         The pyramids took approximately 350 years to complete from 100 BC to 250 AD and had a population of 125,000.
·         Jewellers, potters and craftsmen created many of the artifacts that archaeologists continue to uncover.
·         The Pyramid of the Sun is the third largest pyramid in the world. It was built by the Aztecs who arrived a few centuries after the fall.
·         Teotihuacan was mysteriously abandoned in 700 AD. The collapse is believed to have been caused internally, not from pillagers but from an uprising, with the residences of the most elite classes.
·         Archaeologists have found large quantities of Mica, yet this mineral is found 3,000 miles away in Brazil. Mica is present in almost every single building.
·         Archaeologists have discovered hundreds of mysterious, once-metallic  spheres buried deep beneath an ancient pyramid in Mexico City, and they have no idea what they’re for.
·         No depiction of a ruler, or the tomb of a monarch has ever been found.

·         The architectural designs and styles of the pyramids helped to inspire the first Mexico City hotels in the early 1900’s and while most have undergone drastic renovations over the years, you can still see signs of ancient Mayan culture throughout.


with our guide
amazing that these paintings are still intact
·        

Five and a half days in Mexico City

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Five and a half days in Mexico City
“The wish to travel seems to me characteristically human: the desire to move, to satisfy your curiosity or ease your fears, to change the circumstances of your life, to be a stranger, to make a friend, to experience an exotic landscape, to risk the unknown.” –  Paul Theroux
Sure, we can do this in 5 ½ days. We all agreed that yes, we would not see all the sights, but we could probably do everything on our bucket list. My husband, Lionel, myself and our good friends Anna and Bob researched, planned and were very confident that this was doable. We, of course, do our research and make a wish list of places to see. It always seems that we fall a little short on our time estimate and have started adding an extra day or two, ‘Just in case.’ Mexico City, we soon discovered, requires more than an extra day or two. Yes, we saw the majority of sights on our wish list but we had to spend more hours per day to do so. Yes, we saw a lot and just about everything on our list but we were exhausted. First, we did not get an early start and hence had to rush a bit to fit everything in. My advice? Set a time in the morning to get started. If you are a late riser, then take that into consideration when planning. None of us are late risers, but it seems that this trip was different. We tired easily. I think it probably had to do with the high elevation of the city and the pollution. Breathing can become more difficult if you have any problems in that area.
We stayed at the Revolucion Hotel Plaza. The price was $60.00 Cdn. per night. The rooms were comfortable and reasonably large. The staff was friendly and helpful.
 

We arrived mid afternoon and decided to do a tour on the Hop On, Hop Off bus. Definitely worth it. We got an excellent overview of the city and major sights. Just watch out for low hanging tree branches if you are on the top! Buses depart from key locations and operate on a coloured route system. There are interchange points to go in a different part of the city. There are four routes. There are interchange points on each coloured route to switch from one to another. The tickets are valid for 24 hours and cost approximately $30.00 Cad per person.

Some sights from the bus:

Protestors
Yes, that man is ironing!
 The first place we ate at was La Casa de Los Azulejos (The House of Tiles). Once a private home in the 1900’s, Sanborns rented a mere 30 sq. meters for its pharmacy and soda fountain. Now they occupy a total area of 1500 sq. meters, which includes the restaurant and gift and novelty department.
We were a little daunted by the lineup, but it went quickly. The staff were dressed in traditional folkloric costumes. They also had a clown making balloon creations for the kids. The food was good and relatively inexpensive. Thank you, Anna, for the suggestion.
traditional folkloric dress

 

 

 

Oaxacan cheese and chocolate

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Oaxacan cheese and chocolate
Oaxacan cheese is a white, semi-hard cheese, similar to unaged Monterey Jack but with a mozzarella like string cheese texture. The string cheese process, originally from Italy, which is used to produce mozzarella, was brought to Mexico by the Dominican monks. The mozzarella was made from goat’s milk. However, as goat milk was unavailable, they used cow milk instead. Oaxacan cheese is known for its melt ability.  It has a slightly salty taste but is very delicious.
Now Oaxacan chocolate is something I can sink my teeth into! Fortunately, there are numerous stores and market stalls that sell every type of chocolate.  The best one we found was the Mayordomo, which is on the corner of Mina and 20 de Noviembre.
When you walk into the store, the first thing you notice, of course, is the smell. For chocoholics, this is paradise. They offer a sample of different types of the chocolate ‘bars’ that they sell and also a sample of the hot chocolate. Heavenly start. They also have a machine that will make a chocolate shake. Or you can tell them what amounts of cacao, cinnamon, cloves and almonds you want ground for your personal taste.

 

The chocolate mixtures are usually used as a base for mole sauce.  Watch the video below to see how they make individual mixes for customers. The man at the counter is taking an order and adding what the customer wants, cinnamon etc.


ALEBRIJES San Martin Tilcajete, Mexico

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ALEBRIJES San Martin Tilcajete, Mexico
 “I haven’t been everywhere, but it is on my list.”  Susan Sontag
“Alebrijes are brightly colored Oaxacan Mexican folk art sculptures of fantastical creatures. The first alebrijes, along with the use of the term, originated with Pedro Linares. In 1936, when he was 30 years old, he fell ill with a high fever, which caused him to hallucinate. In these dreams, he was in a forest with rocks and clouds, many of which turned into wild, unnaturally colored animals, which frequently features wings, horns, tails, fierce teeth and bulgy eyes.  He saw a donkey with butterfly wings, a rooster with bull horns, a lion with an eagle head. While seeing the creatures, he heard a crown of voices which repeated the nonsensical word “alebrije”. After he had recovered, he began to create the animals he saw using papier-mache and cardboard.”
Manuel Jiménez pioneered the wood carving of these creatures. The success of the wood creatures has caused a depletion of the copal trees. Attempts have been made to remedy this with reforestation efforts and management but has only had limited success.
The carving of the wood, which is done while the wood is still wet, can take anywhere from hours to a month, depending on the size and the intricacy of the piece. Carving is done with non-mechanical hand tools such as machetes, chisels, and knives.  Certain details such as ears, tails and wings are usually made from pieces separate from the main body.

After the carving, the figure is then left to dry for up to ten months, depending on its overall size and thickness. One of the most important things about the carvings is that every piece is removable. This is how you can tell you have a piece carved by one of the great original carvers. The later carvers didn’t learn the technique of making each piece fit so well that it could be removed and put back in again and again. No two alebrijes are exactly alike.
 

Demonstration on how they make the dyes from natural sources. Some are the same as the techniques used for making the traditional Zapotec rugs.. 

Creatures on the shelf are in the first stage of drying

 

 

 

BLACK POTTERY, San Bartolo Coyotepec, Mexico

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BLACK POTTERY, San Bartolo Coyotepec, Mexico
 Travel makes you humble and appreciative of everything that’s around you.  Kaylee Pulgar
The black pottery was one of the reasons I wanted to go to Oaxaca. I had seen some of the pottery in other places and loved it. I made sure I brought plenty of pesos with me. I was prepared!
Originally the pottery was a matte grey and was very sturdy, allowing it to be hit without breaking. The black pottery is more fragile but popular with Mexican folk art collectors. In the 1950’s Doña Rosa discovered that she could change the colour and shine of the clay by polishing the pieces with quartz and firing them at a slightly lower temperature.
 

 

Painting of  Doña Rosa
 
We arrived at the original workshop and home of Doña Rosa Real where her daughter and grandchildren stage demonstrations for tourists. Watching the demonstration certainly gave me more appreciation for how much work goes into making one piece. Modern potter tools are not used. After the piece is shaped, it is set to dry in a well-insulated room to protect from sudden temperature changes. Drying can take up to three weeks. If the piece is to be polished so that it turns black when finished, it is done when the piece is almost dry. The surface is then lightly moistened and then rubbed with a curved quartz stone. It is at this stage that the carving and handles are made. The piece is then fired in underground pits or above ground kilns.
 

 

 
After the demonstration, we were taken to the shop. I was speechless which is rare for me. There were rows and rows of pottery and when I saw the prices the only thing I could say was, “I am in trouble.”
 

 

Notice the ball inside the pottery

 

 

Yes the price for this was 180.00 pesos which is approximately 16.00 US
 
 
 
 
 

 
 

HIERVE EL AGUA, Oaxaca, Mexico

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HIERVE EL AGUA, Oaxaca, Mexico
 Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world, you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small, and in return, life and travel, leaves marks on you.  Anthony Bourdain
Hierve el Agua is a set of natural rock formations. The two rock cliffs rise between 50 and 90 metres from the valley below. The white rock formations look like waterfalls. They are created by fresh water springs that are over-saturated with calcium carbonate and other minerals. As the water falls over the cliffs, the excess minerals are deposited, much the same as stalactites are formed in caves.
 

 

 
 
 The waters are reputed to have healing qualities with their high mineral content.
 
There are two natural pools and two artificial pools in which visitors can swim. 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 

MITLA, OAXACA, MEXICO

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MITLA, OAXACA, MEXICO
Do yourself a favour before it’s too late, without thinking too much about it first, pack a pillow and a blanket and see as much of the world as you can. You will not regret it. One day it will be too late.  Jhumpa Lahiri
According to Wikipedia, Mitla is the second most important archeological site in the state of Oaxaca in Mexico and the most important of the Zapotec culture. Mitla was the main religious center.
This area was settled by the Zapotecs who over the centuries developed a hierarchical society governed by kings and nobles. By the time the Spanish arrived in the 1520s, the Zapotec  state had a population of over 500,000, sophisticated construction techniques, a writing system, two calendar systems and agriculture that included the growing of maize, beans, squash and chili peppers, using irrigation and terraces in the mountains to grow food.
 

  
What makes Mitla unique among Mesoamerican sites is the elaborate and intricate mosaic fretwork and geometric designs that cover tombs, panels, friezes and even entire walls. These mosaics are made with small, finely cut and polished stone pieces that have been fitted together without the use of mortar. No other site in Mexico has this. 
 
No mortar was used to place these mosaics

 

 

 

 

 

 

SANTA MARIA DE TULE

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SANTA MARIA DE TULE
We must go beyond textbooks, go out into the bypaths and untrodden depths of the wilderness and travel and explore and tell the world the glories of our journey.  John Hope Franklin
 On the church grounds in the town center of Santa Maria de Tule in the Mexican state of Oaxaca stands the world’s largest tree. It is a Montezuma Cypress and has a circumference of 137.8 ft. The age of the tree is thought to be between 1450 – 1600 years.
 
 
 
 
Local Zapotec legend holds that it was planted about 1400 years ago by Pechocha, the Aztec god of wind and storms.
 
 
The tree has been nicknamed the “Tree of Life” because of the images of animals that reputedly visible in the tree’s gnarled trunk and branches. The local schoolchildren give tourists a tour of the tree pointing out the shapes of creatures.
 

 

This is our guide who, after pointing out a creature would always ask “Do you see it?” We quickly learned to respond with a yes!!
 
Another name for the tree is Ahuehuete, meaning “old man of the water”.
The following poem was written by Juan de Dios Peza:
                                    The Ahuehuete of Santa Maria de Tule
How grand splendor
the sight of you, Titan
of these smiling solitudes!
When storms rock
Your crown, all the ages
Moan in your branches.
What could I possibly say to you?
You inspire me so much,
I’d rather withdraw your name
And give you instead my silence
In the form of a song: Next to
A tree like this, a man
means nothing
MEZCAL
What Mexican tour would be complete without a mezcal tasting? In the small village of Tlacolula, just outside Oaxaca was a new mezcal distillery.  Contrary to popular belief, mezcal is not the same as tequila. Unlike tequila, mezcal can be made from 11 types of agave. This diversity produces a range of flavors similar to the different types of grapes in wine making.
 

A truckload of agave
 
400 years ago, the Spanish conquerors taught distillation techniques to Mexico’s inhabitants. The Mexican state of Oaxaca is the official home of Mezcal. In the villages of Oaxaca, the mezcal producers still use the traditional method of roasting agave in underground wood-fired pits, and distilling in small-batch, copper pot stills.
 
 
If you are looking for a worm in the bottle, you won’t find it in a bottle of tequila as the Mexican standards authority prohibits adding insects or larvae to tequila.
According to Tequila Source:
“It seems to be a rite of passage for many to take that first shot of Mezcal or to eat the worm at the bottom of the bottle. Today the urban legend of the tequila worm continues to survive and to eat the worm has become a rite of passage for many. You may wonder how the legend got started. Back in the 1940’s, some American-bottled brands of mezcal came up with a marketing ploy. Stemming from the myth that the worm has magical and aphrodisiac properties, they decided to put a worm in their to impress the gringos and boost sales.
 
There are two types of worms found in mezcal: the red, gusano rojo considered superior because it lives in the root and heart of the maguey plant – and the less prized white, or gold, gusano de oro, which lives on the leaves.
In addition, to using the worm as a marketing strategy, the worm serves as evidence of the high proof of the mezcal, as the percentage of alcohol in the spirit is high enough to preserve the pickled worm.”
 

traffic jam on the way to the Mezcal distillery

 

 

 

Traditional Zapotec rugs

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Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.  Miriam Beard
A short drive from Oaxaca City is the tiny town of Teotitlán del Valle, famous for the production of the traditional woven Zapotec rugs. It is their primary economic activity other than agriculture.
Weaving in this town dates back at least until 500 BCE. The earliest weavings used cotton and the backstrap loom. Teotitlán would pay its financial tribute to the Aztecs in weavings. More modern weaving was introduced by Dominican bishop Juan López Dezárate around 1535 when the bishop brought sheep and treadle loom to the area. The new looms and materials allowed for the weaving of large, heavy duty items such as rugs, serapes and blankets.
The rugs are handcrafted from wool and most of the designs are woven from the craftsmen’s memory. Designs include Zapotec and Mixte glyphs and fretwork and more contemporary designs including reproductions of works by famous artists such as Picasso, Joan Miró, Matisse, or Diego Rivera.
 

It is a family owned and operated business
 
The making of the rugs begins with the washing of the raw wool to rid it of dirt and residues. Next it is carded then spun into yarn. The yarn is wound into large balls to prepare for dying with natural dyes such as indigo, cochineal (insect), marigold and others. The traditional looms are hand-operated.

carding the wool

 
 

These are the dried cochineal. they feel like tiny stones

 

She is grinding the dried cochineal beetles

walnut shells and Brazilwood